Category Archives: Uncategorized

Der Scharfe Maxx

Der Scharfe Maxx.  Man, I love this cheese. It’s as if the decided to put everything people love into one amazing wheel. It absolutely deserves to be my Purely Arbitrary Cheese Obsession of the Week.

It’s an Alpine-style cheese – grassy, oniony, and nutty like a well-aged Gruyere with a heavily washed rind like the really good Appenzellers. But, unlike Gruyere which uses partially skimmed milk, cream is added to the Scharfe Maxx for a richness that is shockingly satisfying and unique in this style cheese. One might think it would compare to the fattiness to a Raclette, but Scharfe Maxx is so much more complex and strong than the best Raclette, that I wouldn’t even suggest them to the same customer.

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Scharfe Maxx is part of the new, underrated, wave of Swiss cheese that has exploded since the end of Swiss Government price supports.  I’ve been trying to convince people about this for years now, but I think the best new cheeses in the world right now are coming from the United States and from Switzerland. Challerhocker, Jersey Blue, Scharfe Maxx, Hoch Ybrig, Dallenwiler, Selun, Senne Flada… All amazing in their own way.

 

When I arrived at work on Saturday, my co-workers were cutting Scharfe Maxx. I won’t lie, I could smell it from beyond the produce section. This is actually one of the few cheeses that co-workers complain about when we cut it.  One night a vegan co-worker came up to us and said, “Hey, I think there’s a dead rat in the wall.”

“No, I think it’s this cheese,” I replied.

“Uh uh, that’s a dead rat.  I’d know that smell anywhere.” I held up a piece of rind to her nose and she looked confused, then bewildered. She walked away shaking her head muttering, “You people are sick.”

For a while that inspired a new slogan for that cheese that we used on customers when giving them samples.  “Smells like dead rat. Tastes like heaven.” *

Seriously though.  This cheese is worth seeking out.  You have probably never had another Swiss cheese like it.

*Apologies to Caroline Hostettler if you are reading this.  Sometimes retailers need to be creative.

 

 

 

Don’t Mourn the Death of “Artisan”

It seems like Mass media has finally figured out that “artisan” is an unregulated, practically meaningless term. I guess Jack in the Box, Dominos, and Tostitos have a way of really taking the romance out of a word.

Time magazine, sensing that people are actually reading about food these days, has had two short pieces on “artisan” in the last 6 months: “Wanna Help Sell a Food Product? Toss in the Word ‘Artisan’” and
The “Artisan” Hoax: Has That Word Become Meaningless?

See also 2 minutes in to this video on the Daily Show

(Hmmm, the embed is not working for some reason. Here’s a link)

I consider myself an original hater of the word “artisan.” Though I will admit to using it occasionally – usually to appease a customer who is fixated on the term – it has always rubbed me the wrong way. Yes, even when I was a board member for the California Artisan Cheese Guild it annoyed me. One of the reviews of Cheesemonger that I was most proud of cited my “picking apart” of the term “artisan” as “delicious”. I won’t repeat what I’ve already written about both the flaws of using unregulated terms and the irony of hearkening back to pre-industrial times as the good old days, but – as with anything in our economic system – words like this will always be co-opted as soon as Big Food starts losing market share.

In the natural foods world, many small companies became hugely successful creating products in opposition to the processed foods that dominate U.S. supermarkets. Now, of course, many of those companies are owned by the huge corporations* that also make that processed food. Also, increasingly the “artisan” American cheese companies that helped bring us the cheese revolution of the last twenty years are being bought by larger European companies.**

Which doesn’t mean that things are hopeless for people wanting to make hand-crafted, high quality cheese. “Artisan” is just a word and an obfuscating one at best. I’ve always thought that in many ways the microbrew, craft beer model is more applicable to cheese*** than the wine business model, and Big Beer tried to do all sorts of fake micro-brews but the small beer business is solid.****. Once people taste handcrafted, well-made, well-aged cheese, they are hard to fool with imposters.

Really, in the end, the taste speaks for itself. We don’t need words like “artisan” when we have actual quality.

*2009 chart here:OrganicT30J09
**I think this is preferable to those companies closing up shop, for the record. But, can you say a product is local if its owned by the French? For that matter, are you buying local if you shop at a chain grocery store owned in another state? I say the answer to both these questions is “no”.
***It is a shame that for obvious reasons cheese cannot — like small brewers –adopt “craft” as a term to describe itself.
****Timely article alert! I saw this after I wrote this post.

Backstock is beautiful

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Tech and the Women’s Faculty Club

This is going to sound silly, I know. But I did my first PowerPoint presentation the other week. I was shocked how easy it was.*

women's faculty

I’m not here to do a commercial. My workplace isn’t very tech savvy. Most workers never touch a computer. Anyone can get it, but pretty much only buyers, office workers, and people elected to committees have store email accounts. As a whole, our co-op prioritizes hands-on work and does not really spend money on fancy tech** because we don’t really need it. For most work in the store, things done on computers are an abstraction or distraction. Other people can set the trends on grocery tech. We’ll come by a few years later and pick up what works well.

This is, of course, anathema to many of you reading this and to many people in our community who work in tech. We get asked sometimes – from a variety of sources: customers, students studying co-ops, people who seemingly have a lot of time on their hands to ponder – whether we have things like a complete constantly updated database of in stock products and their distributors.

No, we don’t.

Because it wouldn’t be useful at all and would cost a ton of money to implement and run and it still wouldn’t be as accurate manually checking the shelf if someone calls in to ask whether we have any Estero Gold in stock.

I’m certainly not anti-tech. Do I even need to defend that statement? But –increasingly unusual in this town — we are a business that relies on physical labor. Heck, we could be one of the few places outside of restaurants where tech workers actually interact with people like us. Grocery stores are also places that get by on low margin and high volume. Spending money on things that may turn out to be bug-filled or just a flavor of the month can actually make a difference in our yearly take home pay.

But my point is, at least a decade after it started making its appearance at conferences I attend, I am ready to adopt PowerPoint. Thanks for working out the kinks everyone!
Where I used it for the first time was the annual UC Berkeley Women’s Faculty Club Open House, an event that has been food themed for years. I talked to them about “Cheese in the Food Revolution” a topic I was given by Professor Sally Fairfax, an awesome educator who has written about the fight to save dairy farmland in the North Bay and who has a super exciting new book coming out which I will hype when the time is right.

I tortured the audience for awhile because logistically I had to do my talk before we had a cheese tasting but it was a fun event. Only one person walked out, but I think she had to go pick up her kids.

By the way, I took this photo because every night before I do a big event, this is what I see in my dreams when I get up to speak. Really, at the time this was taken, the attendees were enjoying wine tasting and snacks in the other room.

women's faculty chairs

*I am also, of course, at the age where the person doing the tech at the event was less than half my age and was assuring me that everything would be ok.
**Our register system and point of sale software is fancy and costly enough!

Comte: always an obsession

I love Comte. Why not re-start my Purely Arbitrary Cheese Obsession of the Week entries with a cheese I love so much?

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There are lots of good Comtes. We almost always use a 4-6 month Comte as our basic Alpine cheese and we often have a more aged one as well. Right now our 15 month (from the Fort Des Rousses which you can see lots pictures of if you scroll down to “Day 6”) is stellar. Nutty, grassy, milky-sweet…. I rarely use anything else for cooking anymore.

The basic difference between Comte (sometimes called Gruyere de Comte)and Swiss Gruyere besides the border line is that (at least from what I saw) the Swiss is brined and the Comte is hand-salted. From our vantage point 10,000 miles or so away from both producers, the Swiss is usually more pungent and onion-y, the Comte more nutty and sweet.

The other difference is that – due to the name-control regulations – Comte preserves the land where it is made by legally recognizing the importance of pasture. Though the milk of over 100,000 cows is used to make Comte, the average herd size is only 35 and each cow must have almost 2.5 acres for grazing. The local cooperatives that make the cheese are also limited in the amount they can produce.

I even used it as a submission for an article that an environmental organization was going to do on eco-friendly cheese. I thought it was perfect because it’s the best example I can think of to show how a cheese can be mass produced (at any given time there are about 50,000 wheels of Comte aging in Fort Des Rousses, which is a large, but not the only, aging cave for the cheese) but still be hand-made with the same quality of a small-production cheese and with explicit regulations regarding the protection of the environment and animal welfare. Amusingly, it wasn’t used because they chose to use a more esoteric, pricey,harder-to-find Alpine cheese example instead. Stay (upper-)classy, big environmental groups!

Anyways, Comte is my Purely Arbitrary Cheese Obsession of the Week. I’m going to go eat some right now.
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(And hey, don’t forget to “like” my new facebook page before the “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge” one gets phased out.)

Cesar Chavez

It’s Cesar Chavez Day in California. Here’s one article about why Chavez was such an important leader, but you can find many more poking around the internet. I’m sure.

Chavez was traveling around the East Coast when I briefly lived there and I was peripherily involved in the grape boycotts of the ’80s. Because of threats, Chavez required security during his speaking engagements. Due to the small amount of organizers involved in that issue in Ithaca NY at that time, I was drafted as one of the three most intimidating people, so I got stand on one side of him while he spoke and look for trouble in the crowd. No one really expected any, but I had time, while he spoke, to consider whether I would take a bullet for him. I was theoretically on board with the concept, but — luckily — was not tested.

We went out for pizza and beer afterwards.

Rainbow is closed in honor of Cesar Chavez Day. We had some internal debate a few years ago about the merits of closing vs. donating a days profits for the cause but highlighting the attempt to make it a national holiday seemed more important. It’s important to remember, as a “foodie revolution” takes place, who does the majority of the hard work, at least in states like California, to bring food to the table, and the work that unions and community organizations like the UFW have done in trying to prevent the use of some of the worst pesticides and harmful farming practices.

New facebook page

I started a new facebook page because during vacation it dawned on me that I really wish I hadn’t given the “Cheesemonger” facebook page the name of my book. For one reason, it’ll be confusing when my next book comes out. For another, it’s embarrassing commenting on other people’s facebooks as “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge”.

Unfortunately, you can’t change the name of a page once it’s set up.

Soooo, I created a new facebook which will mirror everything on that other one for awhile, but eventually “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge” will become dormant. It’d be awesome if you liked this new page.

Thanks!

Cheese Classes Coming Soon

I’m on vacation so I’m not doing regular posting again until the end of March. I am, like always, working on projects on-and-off during my time away from the counter. So, Dear Readers, I have a question for you.

I am starting to do cheese classes in various locations in the Bay Area. I can only announce one right now, “Cheesemonger and Father at the Cheese School” on June 14 (Makes a great Father’s Day gift, btw. Plus, my Dad is funnier than I am). I have another 5-6 outlined and in the works (including “Cheeses from
‘Cheesemonger,’” “Great Cheese Deals,”"Wisconsin vs. California Round 1,”, “Wisconsin vs. California,” and “Cheddar: the People’s Cheese.”)

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But I’ll put it out there to you folks… are there any classes that you would love to take? Any cheese questions that could be answered by a 1-2 hour, 7-10 cheese tasting? What have you always wanted to know about cheese?

Basically, what is your ideal cheese class?

I’ll soon have a list of classes on my website and be updating my calendar with cheese events, but I have the time this week to develop a whole bunch of classes, why not encourage me? I’d appreciate it.

Beautiful eye formation!

I just realized that I have never posted one of my favorite cheese pictures on this blog. I had it as an icon on my old one. Behold cheese glamor!

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Cheesemonger, Rent Control, and Rainbow

First off, I want to thank Bonnie at Bon Bouche for the awesome review. I am grateful for all the reviews of my book but when it’s reviewed as a work of memoir and food literature by someone in publishing, it’s always special.

I also got interviewed by the local website Haighteration. This was a victory because I managed to get Schnitzel and my cheese bookcase in the picture. Heh.

Finally, Rainbow had a small feature in the Chron. (Check out the video. I’m in it for about 1 second)