Retail entitlement culture

I’m a cheesemonger. That means I am a retail worker with a pretentious title. I have to deal with the things that all retail workers need to deal with, the most annoying being the occasional customer with entitlement issues.

Things are actually better now. During the dot com boom, some customers would literally time discussions and then tell you how much money you cost them by answering their questions and addressing their concerns. San Francisco retail is much better than Marin retail because you actually mostly have reasonable people who have occasionally in their lives heard the word “no”.

The thing that causes the most problems is our return policy. We have tried to have a reasonable return policy for reasonable adults. To be totally honest with you, Dear Reader, I argued 15 years ago that we just needed to give up, that we should just take all returns because you never win arguments with customers, indeed, you never want to have arguments with customers. It stresses the workers and makes customers not want to return. I get the concept, I really do. Even it really is a triumph of capital over society.

I’ll give you an example from a few weeks ago. A customer came in and started fiddling with a certain product. I don’t want to name it, but it was a cheese sold in oil. After a while he came up to the counter and said, “I bought some of this and it was bad. Can I exchange it?”

“Sure,” I said.

“I actually bought quite a few. I didn’t open them but they all look bad.”

“You bought a few? Was it when they were on sale?”

“Yes.”

“Well, we’ll give you credit for what you paid. Obviously they cost more at regular price.”

The wrong answer. This unleashed a stream of Whole Foods this and Trader Joes that. Anywhere else he could just give people his word and they would give him product in exchange, no questions asked, no matter what it now cost. During this onslaught, I started to think about timing.

“Wait,” I said. “These haven’t been on sale for months. When did you buy these?”

Another onslaught was released. “Why does it matter?” “Don’t you stand behind your product?” and, my favorite, the telling me how to do my job one, “Other stores return these to their distributors and get credit from them.”

The thing is, while our store is not always the best about customer service, it comes from a place of treating people as equals all the way down the line. Ethically, I am not going to go to a distributor and say, “I need full price credit for this perishable product that I bought on sale which a customer says went bad sometime in the two months since he purchased it. No I can’t really say for certain it was kept refrigerated.” I may authorize the return, but I’m not going to ask someone else to pay for it. I don’t work for a national chain bully.

But beyond that, why is this acceptable anywhere? God help us when the pinko commie worker-owned co-op is the only place left arguing for personal responsibility. Seriously, it’s a societal problem when this is condoned as normal behavior. If I was in this situation I would think, “I bought too much of that perishable product. That was dumb,” and throw it away.

I wouldn’t think, “Someone else must pay for my error in judgment!”

It goes without saying that most people aren’t like this type of customer. I will state here, for the record, that I actually like and feel kinship with most of the customers I talk to on a daily basis. People with this attitude of entitlement, however, are a real problem, yet they take up so much time and energy, and cause such annoyance, that it’s easier to give in and just give them credit rather than treat them as human beings with functional brains who made specific – and in these cases, poor — choices. What does it cost us, as a community, when many retailers treat community members, as if they are spoiled children.

The customer is not always right, sometimes demonstrably so. Saying this is retail suicide, but continuing to pretend that they are – privileging the consumer over other parts of the food system – may, on some small but insistent level, be societal suicide.

Every cheese is cheese of the week this week

Heh. I really shouldn’t have named my regular review “Cheese of the Week”. One, it’s a boring name. Two, it sounds like something a million other cheese blogs would do and three, it was really just about whatever cheese I was obsessing over behind the counter — not an attempt at an unsubjective “best cheese in the case” or anything. That hasn’t stopped people from trying to suggest I mention their cheese, of course, but this is purely for fun, not an attempt at a well-rounded representation of great cheeses.

Any good ideas for a name change? “Gordon’s purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the week” is more like it, but a little long. This was my original disclaimer, maybe I should just post it every time:

(I decided that every week after I work a Saturday behind the counter that I will make a post about my favorite cheeses of the week. This is not a promotional thing; sometimes they may even be out of stock by the time I write this. I just want to share the cheese love. There will be pictures if I remember to bring my camera. If I don’t there won’t. Basically, these will just be the cheeses that I most enjoyed sampling out to cheese lovers over the weekend.)

Anyways, David Grimmels honored us with a visit on Friday. While his Rogue River Blue was probably a repeat “Gordon’s purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the week” this week* (along with the amazing Vacherin Mont D’or-y Tomme du Jura, and the truly awesome Spicherhalde (always alpage!) I am not going to choose it. Hey, it’s my website.And really, this close to the food holidays, every cheese is cheese of the week

No, I am going with the I-don’t-think-it’s-for-sale-yet-and-I-don’t-know-anything-about-it Mount Mazama that David gave me a sample of. It’s a goat and cow milk blended Cheddar and I am in love already. It’s the kind of cheese that makes you wonder why no one has done it before. There are not a lot of great Cheddars on the West Coast (Fiscalini and Beechers who else?) but I think we are going to add this one to the pantheon. Fruity, shardy, sharp, and rich. Awesome.

Boom!
Mount Mazama

*I sold some to some snooty French people claiming to be unimpressed with American cheese

On the radio

Hey, I was on the radio.

It was a pretty short interview — I spent more time on hold listen to morons on another show talk about how Obama is a communist than actually talking – but it was fun.

It was on “An Organic Conversation” and you can check it out here:

http://www.podbean.com/podcast-directory-download?eid=4415264″>Podcast

http://www.anorganicconversation.com/2175/milk/”>Stream from website

Cheese of the week: Reblochon Grand Modele

Real, raw milk Reblochon used to be available all the time. When I knew little about cheese, I used to order it from my regular distributor with no idea that it might not be legal. I knew it was made from raw milk, but I just took folks word that it was 60 days old.

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After 9/11 everything changed, even cheese importation. With much heavier scrutiny and the risk of thousands of pounds of cheese being held up – until unusable – because of one marginal seller, the choice was clear. No more real Reblochon. Though many distributors have attempted to sell pasteurized versions under an assortment of names, they just don’t match up. Too much butterfat, too little complexity.

When I was in France, one producer was super excited about his pasteurized version. We did a blind taste test with his pasteurized and raw milk cheeses and then he went around making us guess (whispering in his ear) which was which. This was not a super-advanced group of cheese folks on this tour. Still, every single person guessed correctly. The cheesemaker looked sad.

I had actually forgotten how good real Reblochon was until I tried this Grand Modele imported by Soyoung Scanlan of Andante Dairy. It’s “Grand Modele” because it’s made in a bigger format so that it can age long enough to be legally imported to the United States. Any Haute-Savoie cheesemaker could do this, of course. The trick is changing this centuries old recipe and still getting the texture similar to what you get in the standard (smaller) version. The Grand Modele is probably a little bit firmer — I was told this may vary –but otherwise almost identical.

Real Reblochon is one of the few cheeses I have a hard time describing in words. Its flavor, and the satisfaction of eating it, is bigger than the sum of its parts. It’s earthy, buttery, and grassy but it’s more complex than almost any other cheese I would describe with those words. There’s a milky sweetness, but it’s subtle. It’s got the intensity of a stronger, washed-rind cheese, but it never nears pungency.

I hesitated writing about this cheese because it is so good I don’t want to risk not being able to get enough if demand picks up. But it’s also too good not to share.

Reblochon, welcome back! I didn’t realize how much I missed you until I tasted you again.

Occupy cheese

I haven’t written about cheese in the last couple of weeks because – frankly – my free time has been spent with the Occupy movement, most notably the Oakland General Strike.*

If I took the time to write a treatise on the movement and my feelings about it, I would never get this done. For the moment I’d say that there is – for the first time in my lifetime – a potential for a mass change of consciousness and politics from the “Greed is Good” era ushered in by Reagan to one that actually serves human needs and strengthens communities.

A few worker co-op buddies at the Oakland General Strike
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My cheese writing will continue soon. And it’s not like cheese is unrelated to these issues. I mean, farmers pretty much get screwed no matter who’s in office – and that certainly pre-dates the ‘80s — but a food movement moving away from Earl Butz-era go-big-or-get-out and the continued corporate consolidation of farming is already here. It fits in perfectly with a 99% vs. 1% political movement.

In fact, the 99% vs. 1% language (while clearly imperfect and imprecise) does cut to the heart of the matter in many ways. For food issues, it does away with all the B.S. urban vs. rural things that are unimportant compared to 1. Can small farmers make a living on the land? and 2. Can people access have access to good, healthy food?

We’re all in this together. This is our chance to remember that.

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*I know it was not a real general strike, but it was a lot closer to one than I imagined it would be.

Occupy Writers

As a writer, signing on to this was a no-brainer. Have your favorite food writers taken a stand?

Writers in support of Occupy Wall St.

malcolminthesnow

I’m on my soapbox

Check out my piece here on Zester Daily. It includes all my pet peeves and also highlights the struggle of Bleating Heart Cheese Company to keep calling one of their cheeses “Sonoma Toma” in the face of a cease and desist letter from a company that no longer makes cheese in Sonoma County. Feel free to link or share this article because I think this issue is one that should be discussed by cheese lovers everywhere.

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The Zester folks are also having a Culture Magazine and cheese knife giveaway so check that out too if you want.

Also, I just realized I never linked this here. I got asked by the SF Weekly about my thoughts on that NY Times affinage article. I had been working for ten hours and had my coat on to leave, but it turned out ok.

My new motto is “Meh!”. (Though I am fond of being called the “Barbara Mandrell of the cheese counter”)

I want to go on a Balloon ride… in Sonoma, Sonoma, Sonoma!

I always forget to write about judging the Sonoma Harvest Fair dairy competition because the awards are secret for a while afterwards. In fact, I’m never exactly sure when they are made public because it’s some time after the judging but before the awards dinner.

But I guess it doesn’t really matter. I’m still here. You’re still here. The cheeses are still here. Let’s talk about it now!

Capricious

The Sonoma Harvest Fair is mostly a wine competition but Sheana Davis* helped bring I dairy back in 2010. It’s open only to cheese, butter, and yogurt made in Sonoma County and while that certainly limits the amount of entries, Sonoma County’s dairy history is over 150 years old so it shouldn’t be absent from this kind of celebration of local food.

This year the judges were me, Sheana, and Colette Hatch, a cheese consultant also known as “Madame de Fromage”** We use the 4-H method of judging where we taste the cheese, give it a preliminary grade (gold, silver, bronze, or no award), have a little discussion, then give a final grade. If everyone votes for gold then it is awarded a “double gold” and entered into the Best of Show category.

The winner was the Valley Ford Cheese Company’s 14 Month Montasio-style Estero Gold. Valley Ford just recently started making cheese but they are a fifth generation dairy operation with a closed heard of 400 Jersey cows humanely raised on 640 acres of land. I had never tried any of Karen Moreda’s cheeses aged this long and I was a little shocked at the strength and depth of flavor. This cheese was assertively fruity, sharp, earthy, big and bitey. Truly an awesome cheese. Her Fontina-style Highway One (below) also got a double gold.
Highway One

My vote for Best of Show (though it was a really difficult decision because they were such different style of cheese) was the Bleating Heart Dairy “Fat Bottom Girl”. Named for the accidental way that her first batch aged, this is simply a great, local version of a classic Basque sheep cheese: milky sweet, caramel-y, grassy, and just incredibly satisfying. Seana Doughty also won double gold for her “Shepherdista”. She just makes great sheep cheese.
Fat Bottom Girl

Another notable double gold winner was the butter from McClelland Dairy. I love their butter. Got some in the fridge right now in fact.

The other double golders were the Achadinha Capricious, the Two Rock Valley Cheese, and the Spring Hill butter. Yum.
All the double golds (from l-r Spring Hill Butter, McClelland Dairy Butter, Valley Ford Highway One, Bleating Heart Sheperdista, Blkeating Heart Fat Bottom Girl, Achadinha Capricious, Two Rock Valley Cheese, Valley Ford Estero Gold

* Sheana’s store, The Epicurean Connection, is opening in a new location on my birthday.*** Check it out if you are in Sonoma
**She really is French so this is not pretentious.
***My birthday, at different times has also been Ig Vella Day and Sheana Davis Day
****The title of this entry is taken from a great song by Feelings on a Grid called “In Sonoma”. It has nothing to do with the rest of the entry.

Non-cheese of the week: Friend in Cheeses

This is American Cheese Month and all I have done to celebrate is sarcastically comment on other people’s facebooks that my favorite U.S.-made cheese is either Jarlsberg or Blue Castello. But c’mon, every month is American Cheese Month for me. It seems odd to single October out.

Right now in my fridge I do have a French Comte,* but it’s sitting in the cheese compartment with some Harley Farms goat cheese, a fresh Jasper Hill Harbison, an American sharp Cheddar and a little bit of Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme that I posted a picture of yesterday. Oh, and some Cypress Grove Chevre to stuff dates with.

But I’m not here to talk about cheese today. Nope, I’m here to talk cheese accompaniments. Because we got the most awesome stuff in the other day.

I am very skeptical when it comes to selling jams out of the cheese department. I hear it works elsewhere, but after 15 years of people telling me how well their products will sell in our area, then watching them not sell and take up valuable space, I’m pretty much an automatic “no”.

So, when this woman emailed about how great her jams were I was not expecting much. Additionally, in our store, as in most grocery stores our size, I have to work out with our regular jam buyer if stuff should go into the cheese department or her sales category. She is pretty jammed up** as well so neither of us were super enthusiastic – on a professional level — to meet Tabitha from Friend in Cheeses. She seemed nice in her emails, but whatever.

In fact, the other buyer begged out of the meeting, claiming she was too busy. As soon as I tasted the Carrot Marmalade though, I paged her and told her she needed to get upstairs right away. Because it was amazing.

So amazing that we bought them all for the store, dividing them up between our two departments. Sweet Onion Jam? OMG. Fig and Fennel Jam? Yes.

My favorite, and which I sold most of a case before I actually had it on display, were the Pinot Noir macerated Montmorressey Cherries. This may be one of the best things I’ve ever had with cheese.***

I have a picture of my other favorite. She calls it “Chow Chow” but warned me that people from the south will get mad about it because, unknown to her when she named it, there is a regional relish called “Chow Chow”. My little Texan at home confirmed this yelling, “This isn’t Chow Chow! You Californians insist on being ignorant and narcissistic, don’t you? Chow Chow already is a food!”**** Still, she agreed it was really good.

Here’s a picture of the Chow Chow with Georgia O’Keefe and her Chow Chow, just to further confuse the issue.***** It’s mixed nuts and berry in a honey base with a little bourbon thrown in for good measure. Uh huh.
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*Not only is this an awesome cheese and impossible to duplicate, flavor-wise, at near the same price, if one is serious about protecting traditional, small-scale cheesemaking, this is a cheese to support. To my knowledge, no other cheese is limited in production-scale by definition in its name-controlled designation.
**heh
***my favorite was actually the obvious: mixed with fresh chevre. But it was good with everything I tried.
**** http://www.armadillopeppers.com/Chow-Chow_Relish.html
*****Anyone from Georgia O’Keefe’s estate reading this, please don’t sue!

Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme

Here’s a better picture of that Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme taken on my kitchen counter. I just put some in an omelet. Oh yeah!

franklin's washed rind