A Sunday spent thinking about death and life (Daphne Zepos, RIP)

I had a death-centric Sunday yesterday, that’s for sure.

First, we did the AIDS Walk out in Golden Gate Park. Our little 4-person team raised almost $3000, and, since there were about 20,000 people out there a lot of money was raised. Overall, more than $2,500,000 was raised yesterday and – even subtracting the pay of some overpaid CEO or ED – it’s a wonderful community event.

It’s funny, I haven’t been for a decade or so and it is a much more celebratory, rather than funereal, event these days in year 25. People had reminders of their dead – names written on their shirts, stuffed animals with name tags, the Quilt etc. – but the atmosphere was very much like a booze-free early morning party. It’s hard to feel sad when Cheer SF, the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, and the Stanford Marching Band is cheering you on.

We walked to the Ocean and caught a slow N bus (construction at Duboce and Church!) back home so I could make the memorial to Daphne Zepos at the Cheese School.

Daphne was a big deal in the cheese world. She was diagnosed three months ago with late stage cancer and passed away (at age 52) before many of us in the cheese world realized that things were that serious and that close. My facebook page and many personal conversations revolved around her death for the last week or so. We are a small community and you know it’s a big deal when one of us gets an NY Times Obit.

I held off from writing anything about her for a couple of reasons. The first is a common feeling… did I know her well enough to claim the space of mourning? That can often be a trap. Being a person who works in a very public place, and having lived within the same 8 block radius for nearly 25 years, many people who have passed through my life have died. It’s not usually my first realization, but I have come to learn over the years that even one nice memory is a gift to those left behind.

The other reason I hesitated was that so many others of you have written so eloquently about what Daphne meant to you. Emi, Anthea, Kirstin… and so many others. My relationship with Daphne was not as profound as the way she mentored many of you. I wanted to leave space for your words.

Daphne and I started working in cheese at around the same time so we had a different relationship. In fact, some reading may remember that we actually had a difficult relationship at the beginning. I won’t go into that except to say that cheese was too important for both of us to not forge a working relationship and a friendship. Over the years I realized that she was an extremely generous person, someone it was a pleasure to be around, someone I always looked forward to seeing at cheese events. Someone who was an extremely important person in our little world.

If you can’t deal with strong, opinionated women, the specialty cheese world is not the place for you. Daphne was always a force to be reckoned with. Sometimes a disorganized force who couldn’t quite seem to arrive on time, but always a force. Some of you who didn’t know her might think that sounds disrespectful, but it was part of her charm. There was always so much to do and so much great cheese. Even though she died at 52, no one can say she didn’t make the most of her time here on the planet. Most profoundly, she respected back and forth and honest discussion in a way that many people can’t handle. While I will agree with her completely on her L’amuse Gouda being the best anywhere, and I rank her Essex St. Comte as right up their with the best, she took it in stride when I told her I preferred my Parmigiano Reggiano to the one she imported. I mean, we argued about it — and I think we both had fun while we staked out our positions — but she understood my opinion.

She never took that kind of thing personally. I think she loved the fact that there was a community in the USA where she could have those kinds of debates. Her tireless work played a part in the fact that that community exists and thrives today.

I actually haven’t come to grips with the fact that she won’t be at the next ACS conference, at the next important cheese tasting, at the Cheese School the next time I am there… I think her loss will be felt even more when I arrive in one of those spaces and she never shows up. I’ll miss the way I wouldn’t see her coming and then suddenly she would appear next to me behind the cheese counter. We don’t allow many people to do that but we would never have thought of saying no to her, (not that she ever asked.) 😉

Goodbye Daphne. You will be missed tremendously. You touched the lives of many, many people. What more could someone really ask for than that?

Cheese wrangling

Just had a great conference call about the panel I am doing at ACS this year and now I’m excited. While the panel could have a more exciting name — “HANDLING CHEESE IN A RETAIL ENVIRONMENT” is not a must-attend sound bite and it sounds like I’ll be in the middle of the retail floor massaging a Gouda or something — I think that it will be fun for us and the attendees. Plus, I get to display some of my Bad Cheese photo gallery during the presentation and that’s always fun.

bad vacherin

Only five weeks away!

Tomme d’Abondance

I’ve always thought this cheese was underrated and super cute. It’s in that Alpine cheese category that I love so much, but it’s less well known than many others from that region, at least here in the U.S. Though it varies by producer, affineur, etc. it can be about the spiciest of the French Alp cheeses with that aged sweet onion taste I associate more with cheeses from the Swiss side of the border.

Look at these beauties: DSC01162

Supposedly the history of this dates back to the 14th Century when Monks made this style of cheese. But you don’t need to study up on this cheese to enjoy it. I’m sure this is not true 100% of the time,* but, generally, darker the wash on the outside, the stronger the cheese. This actually holds true with the Vermont versions of this cheese – Tarentaise by Thistle Hill and Spring Brook – and there is a scientific basis for this so I’ll stay with it until proven otherwise.

Right now we have about the strongest Abondance that we’ve ever had but I like it in all its permutations. The blonder rinded ones are incredibly nutty and grassy, the dark pink sticky ones are big, intense, and powerful. And cute.

Did I mention cute? Look at these indented rinds with the little lips:
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As Mojo Nixon would say, That’s “not no fool Billy Idol lip either”**

*We’ve never regularly sold this cheese so I do not consider myself an expert on it. In 19 years of mongering we’ve probably sold less than 2000 lbs.
**

Italian earthquake

We all love Parmigiano Reggiano, but can I gently say that it’s kind of distasteful for all the cheese folks to mourn the tragedy of the loss of all those Parmesans and not mention that people died in the Italian earthquake. Just saying….

Our thoughts in San Francisco are with those folks who suffered loss in this disaster. We’ll worry about Reggiano prices later.

Don’t Mourn the Death of “Artisan”

It seems like Mass media has finally figured out that “artisan” is an unregulated, practically meaningless term. I guess Jack in the Box, Dominos, and Tostitos have a way of really taking the romance out of a word.

Time magazine, sensing that people are actually reading about food these days, has had two short pieces on “artisan” in the last 6 months: “Wanna Help Sell a Food Product? Toss in the Word ‘Artisan’” and
The “Artisan” Hoax: Has That Word Become Meaningless?

See also 2 minutes in to this video on the Daily Show

(Hmmm, the embed is not working for some reason. Here’s a link)

I consider myself an original hater of the word “artisan.” Though I will admit to using it occasionally – usually to appease a customer who is fixated on the term – it has always rubbed me the wrong way. Yes, even when I was a board member for the California Artisan Cheese Guild it annoyed me. One of the reviews of Cheesemonger that I was most proud of cited my “picking apart” of the term “artisan” as “delicious”. I won’t repeat what I’ve already written about both the flaws of using unregulated terms and the irony of hearkening back to pre-industrial times as the good old days, but – as with anything in our economic system – words like this will always be co-opted as soon as Big Food starts losing market share.

In the natural foods world, many small companies became hugely successful creating products in opposition to the processed foods that dominate U.S. supermarkets. Now, of course, many of those companies are owned by the huge corporations* that also make that processed food. Also, increasingly the “artisan” American cheese companies that helped bring us the cheese revolution of the last twenty years are being bought by larger European companies.**

Which doesn’t mean that things are hopeless for people wanting to make hand-crafted, high quality cheese. “Artisan” is just a word and an obfuscating one at best. I’ve always thought that in many ways the microbrew, craft beer model is more applicable to cheese*** than the wine business model, and Big Beer tried to do all sorts of fake micro-brews but the small beer business is solid.****. Once people taste handcrafted, well-made, well-aged cheese, they are hard to fool with imposters.

Really, in the end, the taste speaks for itself. We don’t need words like “artisan” when we have actual quality.

*2009 chart here:OrganicT30J09
**I think this is preferable to those companies closing up shop, for the record. But, can you say a product is local if its owned by the French? For that matter, are you buying local if you shop at a chain grocery store owned in another state? I say the answer to both these questions is “no”.
***It is a shame that for obvious reasons cheese cannot — like small brewers –adopt “craft” as a term to describe itself.
****Timely article alert! I saw this after I wrote this post.

Backstock is beautiful

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Tech and the Women’s Faculty Club

This is going to sound silly, I know. But I did my first PowerPoint presentation the other week. I was shocked how easy it was.*

women's faculty

I’m not here to do a commercial. My workplace isn’t very tech savvy. Most workers never touch a computer. Anyone can get it, but pretty much only buyers, office workers, and people elected to committees have store email accounts. As a whole, our co-op prioritizes hands-on work and does not really spend money on fancy tech** because we don’t really need it. For most work in the store, things done on computers are an abstraction or distraction. Other people can set the trends on grocery tech. We’ll come by a few years later and pick up what works well.

This is, of course, anathema to many of you reading this and to many people in our community who work in tech. We get asked sometimes – from a variety of sources: customers, students studying co-ops, people who seemingly have a lot of time on their hands to ponder – whether we have things like a complete constantly updated database of in stock products and their distributors.

No, we don’t.

Because it wouldn’t be useful at all and would cost a ton of money to implement and run and it still wouldn’t be as accurate manually checking the shelf if someone calls in to ask whether we have any Estero Gold in stock.

I’m certainly not anti-tech. Do I even need to defend that statement? But –increasingly unusual in this town — we are a business that relies on physical labor. Heck, we could be one of the few places outside of restaurants where tech workers actually interact with people like us. Grocery stores are also places that get by on low margin and high volume. Spending money on things that may turn out to be bug-filled or just a flavor of the month can actually make a difference in our yearly take home pay.

But my point is, at least a decade after it started making its appearance at conferences I attend, I am ready to adopt PowerPoint. Thanks for working out the kinks everyone!
Where I used it for the first time was the annual UC Berkeley Women’s Faculty Club Open House, an event that has been food themed for years. I talked to them about “Cheese in the Food Revolution” a topic I was given by Professor Sally Fairfax, an awesome educator who has written about the fight to save dairy farmland in the North Bay and who has a super exciting new book coming out which I will hype when the time is right.

I tortured the audience for awhile because logistically I had to do my talk before we had a cheese tasting but it was a fun event. Only one person walked out, but I think she had to go pick up her kids.

By the way, I took this photo because every night before I do a big event, this is what I see in my dreams when I get up to speak. Really, at the time this was taken, the attendees were enjoying wine tasting and snacks in the other room.

women's faculty chairs

*I am also, of course, at the age where the person doing the tech at the event was less than half my age and was assuring me that everything would be ok.
**Our register system and point of sale software is fancy and costly enough!

Comte: always an obsession

I love Comte. Why not re-start my Purely Arbitrary Cheese Obsession of the Week entries with a cheese I love so much?

DSC01046

There are lots of good Comtes. We almost always use a 4-6 month Comte as our basic Alpine cheese and we often have a more aged one as well. Right now our 15 month (from the Fort Des Rousses which you can see lots pictures of if you scroll down to “Day 6”) is stellar. Nutty, grassy, milky-sweet…. I rarely use anything else for cooking anymore.

The basic difference between Comte (sometimes called Gruyere de Comte)and Swiss Gruyere besides the border line is that (at least from what I saw) the Swiss is brined and the Comte is hand-salted. From our vantage point 10,000 miles or so away from both producers, the Swiss is usually more pungent and onion-y, the Comte more nutty and sweet.

The other difference is that – due to the name-control regulations – Comte preserves the land where it is made by legally recognizing the importance of pasture. Though the milk of over 100,000 cows is used to make Comte, the average herd size is only 35 and each cow must have almost 2.5 acres for grazing. The local cooperatives that make the cheese are also limited in the amount they can produce.

I even used it as a submission for an article that an environmental organization was going to do on eco-friendly cheese. I thought it was perfect because it’s the best example I can think of to show how a cheese can be mass produced (at any given time there are about 50,000 wheels of Comte aging in Fort Des Rousses, which is a large, but not the only, aging cave for the cheese) but still be hand-made with the same quality of a small-production cheese and with explicit regulations regarding the protection of the environment and animal welfare. Amusingly, it wasn’t used because they chose to use a more esoteric, pricey,harder-to-find Alpine cheese example instead. Stay (upper-)classy, big environmental groups!

Anyways, Comte is my Purely Arbitrary Cheese Obsession of the Week. I’m going to go eat some right now.
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(And hey, don’t forget to “like” my new facebook page before the “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge” one gets phased out.)

Cesar Chavez

It’s Cesar Chavez Day in California. Here’s one article about why Chavez was such an important leader, but you can find many more poking around the internet. I’m sure.

Chavez was traveling around the East Coast when I briefly lived there and I was peripherily involved in the grape boycotts of the ’80s. Because of threats, Chavez required security during his speaking engagements. Due to the small amount of organizers involved in that issue in Ithaca NY at that time, I was drafted as one of the three most intimidating people, so I got stand on one side of him while he spoke and look for trouble in the crowd. No one really expected any, but I had time, while he spoke, to consider whether I would take a bullet for him. I was theoretically on board with the concept, but — luckily — was not tested.

We went out for pizza and beer afterwards.

Rainbow is closed in honor of Cesar Chavez Day. We had some internal debate a few years ago about the merits of closing vs. donating a days profits for the cause but highlighting the attempt to make it a national holiday seemed more important. It’s important to remember, as a “foodie revolution” takes place, who does the majority of the hard work, at least in states like California, to bring food to the table, and the work that unions and community organizations like the UFW have done in trying to prevent the use of some of the worst pesticides and harmful farming practices.

New facebook page

I started a new facebook page because during vacation it dawned on me that I really wish I hadn’t given the “Cheesemonger” facebook page the name of my book. For one reason, it’ll be confusing when my next book comes out. For another, it’s embarrassing commenting on other people’s facebooks as “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge”.

Unfortunately, you can’t change the name of a page once it’s set up.

Soooo, I created a new facebook which will mirror everything on that other one for awhile, but eventually “Cheesemonger: A Life on the Wedge” will become dormant. It’d be awesome if you liked this new page.

Thanks!