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Cheese of the month: Beaufort Alpage

I will say that my purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the month of December was the Beaufort Alpage* we bought from Andante Dairy. Andante has an import program and really are bringing in some of the best cheeses in the world. I believe we are the only ones in the Bay with this Beaufort and, while all Beauforts are good, and all Beaufort Alpages are pretty awesome, this one may be the best I’ve ever tasted. Floral, grassy, rich, nutty, buttery, onion-y, and milky-sweet. Complex, but easy to eat.

Often when tasting cheese I can find some defect or point of worry. “A touch salty”, “a little bitter”, “may become ammoniated in a day or two,” etc. But if I were judging this cheese I would give it a perfect score. You just don’t get cheeses like this very often. Truly this cheese represents the pinnacle of cheesemaking skill and quality milk.

beaufort

This is a cheese I feel honored just to have in our store.

*Alpage means the cheese is made in Summer from the milk when the cows are at their highest elevation. This milk is – generally speaking — considered the richest and best milk of the year.

Happy New Year! (And so long 2011)

I suppose it’s my job – as a “blogger” – to provide year-end content. You know, “Best of” lists,* “Worst of” lists, year-end reviews, etc. I’ve done so in the past, and, honestly, I thought they were pretty good.** And while I have read, amongst the usual negative facebook chatter, people express their hate for such things, I love them. Heck, beyond the movies/albums/books, reviews I read the best/worst theater year-end review in the NY Times even though I haven’t been to NY in about 15 years and am unlikely ever to see any of those plays.

But man, this holiday season kicked my butt. Talking to a co-worker, we both agreed that it felt like the food holidays started on Nov. 1 and we hadn’t taken a breath since then; that it’s been much more intense than it has been in years. Sometimes it’s just about what days the holidays fall, but overall numbers are way up. All the reps and other cheesemongers I know are saying the same thing.

So all I’m trying to say is that the price you pay for reading the semi-coherent ramblings of a real cheesemonger is that I was too busy and exhausted to compile any fun year-end things for you. Heck, I didn’t even take any pictures of holiday craziness this year. Sorry.

If the Fancy Food Show wasn’t on the horizon or if I had been smart and planned some time off I would promise you these at a later date, but for now, we’ll just have to wait and see how it goes. Ok?

I will say happy anniversary to two of my favorite cheese companies:

Happy 20th Cypress Grove!
hum fog anniversary

Happy 75th Rogue Creamery!
rogue anniversary

I drank this and thought of Ig Vella.

Happy New Year to all you reading out there, wherever you are.

*I did answer questions from the SF Weekly though. “Meh!”

**Also, cheese doesn’t move super fast. My five-part 2010 wrap up from last year is still mostly valid.

The difference between a cheese professional and a well informed cheese enthusiast

There are times of the year I associate with bad cheese. Usually it is after a holiday, when a distributor has bought too much of something perishable that didn’t sell. Buyers are alerted to these deals with flyers titled things like “Hot Sheet”, “Killer Deals”, and “Margin Builders.” This is definitely risky buying for the most part. You can make good money and still put things out cheap, but when these go bad, they go bad in a hurry.

(Not the cheese I’m talking about today, but the internet loves pictures)
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The week after Thanksgiving can be one of those weeks. So, I was quite surprised when I had a week of bad cheese, and none of it from those kinds of sales. I don’t want to go into detail here (sorry), partially because I am still negotiating credit on some of this stuff. But instead of a ““Gordon’s purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the week” entry, I was inundated with cheese that made my tongue hurt.

The first thing that was killer was about 200lbs of cheese that a distributor ordered and then – because of their own corporate machinations – sat on for two months without attempting to sell. The cheesemaker asked me, as a favor, if I would take it all and sell anything I could at whatever price I could. I was excited because I love this person’s cheese, and I figured anything salvageable could be amazing. Sadly, not of it was.

When I think of awful blue cheeses I think of bad Spanish Cabrales. Not good Cabrales, mind you. I love that. But when Cabrales gets too old it turns dark, even nearly black at times. The paste gets as hard and shardy as shale and it is too intense to even swallow. And of course I’ve tasted this. The difference between a cheese professional and a well informed cheese enthusiast is this: I have tasted almost every cheese at its best and at its worst. This salvage blue: probably the worst blue I’ve ever tasted.

Partly that’s because it started out strong but nice. When I first put it in my mouth I was thinking about calling the maker, encouraging them to age their cheese longer, even special ordering extra aged wheels and selling them as something like, I don’t know, Gordonzola Extra-Aged, Select Reserve Aged for Extra Time. The cheese trap was sprung. A moment after this fleeting thought, the cheese turned on me. What was strong became bitter. What was fruity became excess fermentation. What was butterfat became rancid. This was up their with bad Cabrales in intensity. This was a cheese I couldn’t spit out fast enough.

Unfortunately, that wasn’t the only bad cheese of the day. Another cheese, one of my favorites actually, came in like it was trying to trick us. Out of 24 wheels, only 3 were sellable. The three that were sellable were awesome and, unfortunately the one we tasted upon arrival was one of the few good ones so it wasn’t until we sold a few that we realized that there was something very, very wrong. Unlike the good examples, which were complex, rich, earthy, and awesome, the bad ones were diaper-smelly, bitter, cloying and intense.

This cheese – a department favorite – cast a pall over the rest of the day. We almost cried at the disappointment of its badness. This is a cheese that we all love to recommend when we have it. Its great potential turned to evil was a metaphor we didn’t want – or have time — to contemplate on the retail floor.

One of my holiday cheese plates

I actually made two cheese plates for Thanksgiving this year. One for my parents’ house and one for our little gathering the day after. I only took pics of the one at our apartment so if you are a cheesemaker reading this, be sure your cheese was on the other plate!

This was the Hermann St. cheese plate:
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Front row, l-r Beau’s Blend, Bleu des Basques, Benina Crema
Back row, l-r Pau (St. Mateu),* Rush Creek, Prairie Bloom (mislabeled as “cow”. Sorry, it was a long week)

And what the heck, let’s have another picture of the Bellwether Whole Milk Ricotta with pinot-soaked cherries!
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If you wanna talk about underrated cheeses, the Benina Crema is definitely under-appreciated. Made somewhere in Merced County the cheese is now being aged longer than the version we carried a year ago and it is tremendous. It’s sweet and sharp like an aged Gouda but organic, hand-made, and from grass-based milk. The Burroughs Family eggs are awesome too, if you can find them!

The Beau’s Blend is another California cheese from down near Watsonville. The Garden Variety organic sheep milk is combined with the milk from the Schoch Dairy down the road. This may have been the most popular cheese on the plate (except for the ricotta/cherry combo).

Rush Creek actually was probably the most popular. It just disappeared so fast it was like it was never there. I’ve written about this cheese before.

Bleu des Basques is another under-appreciated cheese. Think more interesting Istara Ossau-Iraty with blue veins! Awesome.

I will admit that the Prairie Bloom was a free sample. Hey, cheese is expensive, even to me! Still this was a really nice little goat brie from Missouri. I know nothing about it except what we can both read here.

This is what the cheese plate looked like after about 2 hours.
the cheese plate is dead

People love cheese.

Please feel free to share any good Thanksgiving cheese stories in the comments. What did you serve?

*Anyone know why this cheese was once called Pau and now is called St. Mateu?

Hit of the Holiday

I served a lot of great cheeses for Thanksgiving, but this was the hit of the holiday. Bellwether Farms Whole Milk Ricotta topped with Friend in Cheeses Pinot Cherries:
ricotta and cherries

It was milky. It was sweet. It was boozy. It was awesome.

I was going to wait until our x-mas party to try this, but after Lenny from Bellwether came to the store and did a demo, I decided I couldn’t wait any longer. Thanks again Lenny!

Cheese Professional Certification Exam

Fellow cheese professionals, I have a question for you. I really want your input.

I realize this is the worst possible time to ask a question like this. We are all – if we are real cheese professionals – super busy with the main food holiday of the year only days away. I am writing this in the couple of hours I have this morning before I have to go back and sell more cheese. Still, I keep getting requests in my email and facebook about taking the American Cheese Society Certification Exam for Cheese Professionals.

I simply don’t feel like I can take this test until the arbitrary and unnecessary requirement of a high school diploma or GED is dropped.

There is absolutely no reason for this requirement. If one can pass the test, level of schooling simply doesn’t matter. I have no idea why this was added in, it certainly wasn’t there the last time I looked at the proposed guidelines (Which admittedly has been awhile. Since I couldn’t attend last year’s conference I could not be a part of the working group and didn’t read the latest changes before they were adopted).

This whole process has given me pause. In 2006 when it was brought to the conference there was no requirement for experience in order to pass the (proposed) exam. Nor was their anything about basic health and safety requirements for food handling. These are two examples that seem to indicate the idea for this certification was envisioned by somehow who doesn’t actively work in cheese.

In my experience, there is no one path to working in cheese. There are PhDs and high school dropouts, ex-cops and punk rockers, kids of farmers and people who have never lived outside of a city. And there is also the group that would likely be the most affected by this requirement: immigrants.

Let’s be honest for a second. Try and picture the cheese world without immigrants… In large parts of the country we wouldn’t even have the milk to start the process of cheesemaking without Latino and Eastern European labor. The people driving the trucks and packing the pallets? Many of them weren’t born in the United States. The people cutting, wrapping, and selling cheese in urban grocery stores? They reflect the demographics of their cities. There are people who’ve been working in cheese longer than I have who did not have schooling in the United States. Do they have high school diplomas or GEDs?

I have no idea. And why should I? High school diploma or GED is simply not a measure of intelligence or ability to talk to a customer about cheese. I don’t know how many people this would affect, or how many of them even care about this certification exam, but the time to get rid of stupid and unnecessary requirements is at the beginning.

So here it is… even though I meet the requirements, I don’t feel I can take the exam until this barrier is eliminated. How do you feel about it?

*There was a discussion forum for this exam sponsored by the ACS but I can’t seem to find it. Oh actually, I just found the link and it doesn’t work anymore. Odd.

Retail entitlement culture

I’m a cheesemonger. That means I am a retail worker with a pretentious title. I have to deal with the things that all retail workers need to deal with, the most annoying being the occasional customer with entitlement issues.

Things are actually better now. During the dot com boom, some customers would literally time discussions and then tell you how much money you cost them by answering their questions and addressing their concerns. San Francisco retail is much better than Marin retail because you actually mostly have reasonable people who have occasionally in their lives heard the word “no”.

The thing that causes the most problems is our return policy. We have tried to have a reasonable return policy for reasonable adults. To be totally honest with you, Dear Reader, I argued 15 years ago that we just needed to give up, that we should just take all returns because you never win arguments with customers, indeed, you never want to have arguments with customers. It stresses the workers and makes customers not want to return. I get the concept, I really do. Even it really is a triumph of capital over society.

I’ll give you an example from a few weeks ago. A customer came in and started fiddling with a certain product. I don’t want to name it, but let’s just say it’s cheddar. After a while he came up to the counter and said, “I bought some of this and it was bad. Can I exchange it?”

“Sure,” I said.

“I actually bought quite a few. I didn’t open them but they all look bad.”

“You bought a few? Was it when they were on sale?”

“Yes.”

“Well, we’ll give you credit for what you paid. Obviously they cost more at regular price.”

The wrong answer. This unleashed a stream of Whole Foods this and Trader Joes that. Anywhere else he could just give people his word and they would give him product in exchange, no questions asked, no matter what it now cost. During this onslaught, I started to think about timing.

“Wait,” I said. “These haven’t been on sale for months. When did you buy these?”

Another onslaught was released. “Why does it matter?” “Don’t you stand behind your product?” and, my favorite, the telling me how to do my job one, “Other stores return these to their distributors and get credit from them.”

The thing is, while our store is not always the best about customer service, it comes from a place of treating people as equals all the way down the line. Ethically, I am not going to go to a distributor and say, “I need full price credit for this perishable product that I bought on sale which a customer says went bad sometime in the two months since he purchased it. No I can’t really say for certain it was kept refrigerated.” I may authorize the return, but I’m not going to ask someone else to pay for it. I don’t work for a national chain bully.

But beyond that, why is this acceptable anywhere? God help us when the pinko commie worker-owned co-op is the only place left arguing for personal responsibility. Seriously, it’s a societal problem when this is condoned as normal behavior. If I was in this situation I would think, “I bought too much of that perishable product. That was dumb,” and throw it away.

I wouldn’t think, “Someone else must pay for my error in judgment!”

It goes without saying that most people aren’t like this type of customer. I will state here, for the record, that I actually like and feel kinship with most of the customers I talk to on a daily basis. People with this attitude of entitlement, however, are a real problem, yet they take up so much time and energy, and cause such annoyance, that it’s easier to give in and just give them credit rather than treat them as human beings with functional brains who made specific – and in these cases, poor — choices. What does it cost us, as a community, when many retailers treat community members, as if they are spoiled children.

The customer is not always right, sometimes demonstrably so. Saying this is retail suicide, but continuing to pretend that they are – privileging the consumer over other parts of the food system – may, on some small but insistent level, be societal suicide.

Every cheese is cheese of the week this week

Heh. I really shouldn’t have named my regular review “Cheese of the Week”. One, it’s a boring name. Two, it sounds like something a million other cheese blogs would do and three, it was really just about whatever cheese I was obsessing over behind the counter — not an attempt at an unsubjective “best cheese in the case” or anything. That hasn’t stopped people from trying to suggest I mention their cheese, of course, but this is purely for fun, not an attempt at a well-rounded representation of great cheeses.

Any good ideas for a name change? “Gordon’s purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the week” is more like it, but a little long. This was my original disclaimer, maybe I should just post it every time:

(I decided that every week after I work a Saturday behind the counter that I will make a post about my favorite cheeses of the week. This is not a promotional thing; sometimes they may even be out of stock by the time I write this. I just want to share the cheese love. There will be pictures if I remember to bring my camera. If I don’t there won’t. Basically, these will just be the cheeses that I most enjoyed sampling out to cheese lovers over the weekend.)

Anyways, David Grimmels honored us with a visit on Friday. While his Rogue River Blue was probably a repeat “Gordon’s purely arbitrary cheese obsession of the week” this week* (along with the amazing Vacherin Mont D’or-y Tomme du Jura, and the truly awesome Spicherhalde (always alpage!) I am not going to choose it. Hey, it’s my website.And really, this close to the food holidays, every cheese is cheese of the week

No, I am going with the I-don’t-think-it’s-for-sale-yet-and-I-don’t-know-anything-about-it Mount Mazama that David gave me a sample of. It’s a goat and cow milk blended Cheddar and I am in love already. It’s the kind of cheese that makes you wonder why no one has done it before. There are not a lot of great Cheddars on the West Coast (Fiscalini and Beechers who else?) but I think we are going to add this one to the pantheon. Fruity, shardy, sharp, and rich. Awesome.

Boom!
Mount Mazama

*I sold some to some snooty French people claiming to be unimpressed with American cheese

On the radio

Hey, I was on the radio.

It was a pretty short interview — I spent more time on hold listen to morons on another show talk about how Obama is a communist than actually talking – but it was fun.

It was on “An Organic Conversation” and you can check it out here:

http://www.podbean.com/podcast-directory-download?eid=4415264″>Podcast

http://www.anorganicconversation.com/2175/milk/”>Stream from website

Cheese of the week: Reblochon Grand Modele

Real, raw milk Reblochon used to be available all the time. When I knew little about cheese, I used to order it from my regular distributor with no idea that it might not be legal. I knew it was made from raw milk, but I just took folks word that it was 60 days old.

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After 9/11 everything changed, even cheese importation. With much heavier scrutiny and the risk of thousands of pounds of cheese being held up – until unusable – because of one marginal seller, the choice was clear. No more real Reblochon. Though many distributors have attempted to sell pasteurized versions under an assortment of names, they just don’t match up. Too much butterfat, too little complexity.

When I was in France, one producer was super excited about his pasteurized version. We did a blind taste test with his pasteurized and raw milk cheeses and then he went around making us guess (whispering in his ear) which was which. This was not a super-advanced group of cheese folks on this tour. Still, every single person guessed correctly. The cheesemaker looked sad.

I had actually forgotten how good real Reblochon was until I tried this Grand Modele imported by Soyoung Scanlan of Andante Dairy. It’s “Grand Modele” because it’s made in a bigger format so that it can age long enough to be legally imported to the United States. Any Haute-Savoie cheesemaker could do this, of course. The trick is changing this centuries old recipe and still getting the texture similar to what you get in the standard (smaller) version. The Grand Modele is probably a little bit firmer — I was told this may vary –but otherwise almost identical.

Real Reblochon is one of the few cheeses I have a hard time describing in words. Its flavor, and the satisfaction of eating it, is bigger than the sum of its parts. It’s earthy, buttery, and grassy but it’s more complex than almost any other cheese I would describe with those words. There’s a milky sweetness, but it’s subtle. It’s got the intensity of a stronger, washed-rind cheese, but it never nears pungency.

I hesitated writing about this cheese because it is so good I don’t want to risk not being able to get enough if demand picks up. But it’s also too good not to share.

Reblochon, welcome back! I didn’t realize how much I missed you until I tasted you again.