Category Archives: Uncategorized

Occupy cheese

I haven’t written about cheese in the last couple of weeks because – frankly – my free time has been spent with the Occupy movement, most notably the Oakland General Strike.*

If I took the time to write a treatise on the movement and my feelings about it, I would never get this done. For the moment I’d say that there is – for the first time in my lifetime – a potential for a mass change of consciousness and politics from the “Greed is Good” era ushered in by Reagan to one that actually serves human needs and strengthens communities.

A few worker co-op buddies at the Oakland General Strike
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My cheese writing will continue soon. And it’s not like cheese is unrelated to these issues. I mean, farmers pretty much get screwed no matter who’s in office – and that certainly pre-dates the ‘80s — but a food movement moving away from Earl Butz-era go-big-or-get-out and the continued corporate consolidation of farming is already here. It fits in perfectly with a 99% vs. 1% political movement.

In fact, the 99% vs. 1% language (while clearly imperfect and imprecise) does cut to the heart of the matter in many ways. For food issues, it does away with all the B.S. urban vs. rural things that are unimportant compared to 1. Can small farmers make a living on the land? and 2. Can people access have access to good, healthy food?

We’re all in this together. This is our chance to remember that.

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*I know it was not a real general strike, but it was a lot closer to one than I imagined it would be.

Occupy Writers

As a writer, signing on to this was a no-brainer. Have your favorite food writers taken a stand?

Writers in support of Occupy Wall St.

malcolminthesnow

I’m on my soapbox

Check out my piece here on Zester Daily. It includes all my pet peeves and also highlights the struggle of Bleating Heart Cheese Company to keep calling one of their cheeses “Sonoma Toma” in the face of a cease and desist letter from a company that no longer makes cheese in Sonoma County. Feel free to link or share this article because I think this issue is one that should be discussed by cheese lovers everywhere.

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The Zester folks are also having a Culture Magazine and cheese knife giveaway so check that out too if you want.

Also, I just realized I never linked this here. I got asked by the SF Weekly about my thoughts on that NY Times affinage article. I had been working for ten hours and had my coat on to leave, but it turned out ok.

My new motto is “Meh!”. (Though I am fond of being called the “Barbara Mandrell of the cheese counter”)

I want to go on a Balloon ride… in Sonoma, Sonoma, Sonoma!

I always forget to write about judging the Sonoma Harvest Fair dairy competition because the awards are secret for a while afterwards. In fact, I’m never exactly sure when they are made public because it’s some time after the judging but before the awards dinner.

But I guess it doesn’t really matter. I’m still here. You’re still here. The cheeses are still here. Let’s talk about it now!

Capricious

The Sonoma Harvest Fair is mostly a wine competition but Sheana Davis* helped bring I dairy back in 2010. It’s open only to cheese, butter, and yogurt made in Sonoma County and while that certainly limits the amount of entries, Sonoma County’s dairy history is over 150 years old so it shouldn’t be absent from this kind of celebration of local food.

This year the judges were me, Sheana, and Colette Hatch, a cheese consultant also known as “Madame de Fromage”** We use the 4-H method of judging where we taste the cheese, give it a preliminary grade (gold, silver, bronze, or no award), have a little discussion, then give a final grade. If everyone votes for gold then it is awarded a “double gold” and entered into the Best of Show category.

The winner was the Valley Ford Cheese Company’s 14 Month Montasio-style Estero Gold. Valley Ford just recently started making cheese but they are a fifth generation dairy operation with a closed heard of 400 Jersey cows humanely raised on 640 acres of land. I had never tried any of Karen Moreda’s cheeses aged this long and I was a little shocked at the strength and depth of flavor. This cheese was assertively fruity, sharp, earthy, big and bitey. Truly an awesome cheese. Her Fontina-style Highway One (below) also got a double gold.
Highway One

My vote for Best of Show (though it was a really difficult decision because they were such different style of cheese) was the Bleating Heart Dairy “Fat Bottom Girl”. Named for the accidental way that her first batch aged, this is simply a great, local version of a classic Basque sheep cheese: milky sweet, caramel-y, grassy, and just incredibly satisfying. Seana Doughty also won double gold for her “Shepherdista”. She just makes great sheep cheese.
Fat Bottom Girl

Another notable double gold winner was the butter from McClelland Dairy. I love their butter. Got some in the fridge right now in fact.

The other double golders were the Achadinha Capricious, the Two Rock Valley Cheese, and the Spring Hill butter. Yum.
All the double golds (from l-r Spring Hill Butter, McClelland Dairy Butter, Valley Ford Highway One, Bleating Heart Sheperdista, Blkeating Heart Fat Bottom Girl, Achadinha Capricious, Two Rock Valley Cheese, Valley Ford Estero Gold

* Sheana’s store, The Epicurean Connection, is opening in a new location on my birthday.*** Check it out if you are in Sonoma
**She really is French so this is not pretentious.
***My birthday, at different times has also been Ig Vella Day and Sheana Davis Day
****The title of this entry is taken from a great song by Feelings on a Grid called “In Sonoma”. It has nothing to do with the rest of the entry.

Non-cheese of the week: Friend in Cheeses

This is American Cheese Month and all I have done to celebrate is sarcastically comment on other people’s facebooks that my favorite U.S.-made cheese is either Jarlsberg or Blue Castello. But c’mon, every month is American Cheese Month for me. It seems odd to single October out.

Right now in my fridge I do have a French Comte,* but it’s sitting in the cheese compartment with some Harley Farms goat cheese, a fresh Jasper Hill Harbison, an American sharp Cheddar and a little bit of Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme that I posted a picture of yesterday. Oh, and some Cypress Grove Chevre to stuff dates with.

But I’m not here to talk about cheese today. Nope, I’m here to talk cheese accompaniments. Because we got the most awesome stuff in the other day.

I am very skeptical when it comes to selling jams out of the cheese department. I hear it works elsewhere, but after 15 years of people telling me how well their products will sell in our area, then watching them not sell and take up valuable space, I’m pretty much an automatic “no”.

So, when this woman emailed about how great her jams were I was not expecting much. Additionally, in our store, as in most grocery stores our size, I have to work out with our regular jam buyer if stuff should go into the cheese department or her sales category. She is pretty jammed up** as well so neither of us were super enthusiastic – on a professional level — to meet Tabitha from Friend in Cheeses. She seemed nice in her emails, but whatever.

In fact, the other buyer begged out of the meeting, claiming she was too busy. As soon as I tasted the Carrot Marmalade though, I paged her and told her she needed to get upstairs right away. Because it was amazing.

So amazing that we bought them all for the store, dividing them up between our two departments. Sweet Onion Jam? OMG. Fig and Fennel Jam? Yes.

My favorite, and which I sold most of a case before I actually had it on display, were the Pinot Noir macerated Montmorressey Cherries. This may be one of the best things I’ve ever had with cheese.***

I have a picture of my other favorite. She calls it “Chow Chow” but warned me that people from the south will get mad about it because, unknown to her when she named it, there is a regional relish called “Chow Chow”. My little Texan at home confirmed this yelling, “This isn’t Chow Chow! You Californians insist on being ignorant and narcissistic, don’t you? Chow Chow already is a food!”**** Still, she agreed it was really good.

Here’s a picture of the Chow Chow with Georgia O’Keefe and her Chow Chow, just to further confuse the issue.***** It’s mixed nuts and berry in a honey base with a little bourbon thrown in for good measure. Uh huh.
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*Not only is this an awesome cheese and impossible to duplicate, flavor-wise, at near the same price, if one is serious about protecting traditional, small-scale cheesemaking, this is a cheese to support. To my knowledge, no other cheese is limited in production-scale by definition in its name-controlled designation.
**heh
***my favorite was actually the obvious: mixed with fresh chevre. But it was good with everything I tried.
**** http://www.armadillopeppers.com/Chow-Chow_Relish.html
*****Anyone from Georgia O’Keefe’s estate reading this, please don’t sue!

Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme

Here’s a better picture of that Franklin’s washed-rind Teleme taken on my kitchen counter. I just put some in an omelet. Oh yeah!

franklin's washed rind

Cheese of the Week: Anton’s Red Love and Franklin’s Washed-Rind Teleme

I’m on vacation, but I am going to write about two cheeses before I head off to the Russian River.* Both cheeses are pink and stinky and two of my new favorites.

Anton’s Red Love is a polarizing cheese. Not because of its luscious butterfat, notice-me stink, and balance of flavor. No, almost everyone I sampled it to loved the cheese. It’s polarizing because of its label. Don’t believe me, check it out:
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This is right up in my top three disturbing cheese labels. Number one is still the child porn Taleggio but I think Red Love moves to number two, supplanting the emaciated sheep about to commit cannibalism on a Manchego. I mean, don’t get me wrong. I love this label.** But about half the cheese workers at the store looked at me like I was crazy to use this label (which I laminated) as a display. That the cheese feeder is the cheesemakers daughter (supposedly) makes it even more awesome in my mind. Get your heads out of the gutter, people! It’s sweet. Just because Folsom St. is this weekend doesn’t mean the label promotes feeder-fetishes.

If you want an awesome stinky cheese, seek out Anton’s Red Love.

In other stinky news, Franklin Peluso sent us a square of the washed rind Teleme he’s been working on for awhile. I may have written this before, but the contrast between multi-generation cheesemakers Sid Cook (Carr Valley Cheese) and Franklin Peluso is amazing. In the time it took to write this entry, Sid Cook – who already makes about 150 cheeses*** — has probably already invented, tested and marketed two new cheeses. Franklin, however, made only his second kind of Teleme ever a few years ago…. He added pepper to it! This is his third cheese**** and it is long-anticipated by Bay Area cheese lovers.

Now, you and me, we can admit that a washed-rind Teleme is a Taleggio, right? Even if name-control-wise we can’t call it that. I mean geez, I’ve been selling Teleme as “Taleggio without the washed rind” for a decade and a half now….

This sample cheese was awesome. It was falling apart a little. But that was because the ooze factor was so high. Like Teleme, this is not a strong cheese, despite the stink, but a rich slightly pungent one that is super hard to stop eating.

I brought our remaining sample to the Bay Area Cheesemonger party last week where it was well-received for sure. (Thanks for the party Christine Bayuga!)
franklin's washed-rind Teleme

Can’t wait to get it on the shelf.

*We accidently booked a place on the Russian River for Folsom Street Fair weekend. Will it be deserted or packed with people fleeing the city?
**Not to be confused with I Love My Label
***Exaggeration for effect.
**** Well, he did make a short-lived cow/sheep version with Rinconada Dairy, but that was just the regular Teleme with mixed milk.
****Oh what the heck, here’s a close up!
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******This entry written while listening to the amazing John Cooper Clarke

Co-op Conference review

The Western Worker Cooperative Conference was at Breitenbush Hot Springs, a worker collective and an intentional community in the national forest land of rural Oregon. It’s an amazing, beautiful place and even if I actually think it’s bad for the movement to have the conference there (culturally alienating to many people, hard to get to, not super accessible, hard on the backs of old people like me) I do love going there.

I only took a couple of dips in the hot springs though because, man, it was hot up there. The conference used to be in late October and there would sometimes be ice on the ground. That’s hot springs weather. If I liked the sun and outside temperatures over 70 degrees I wouldn’t live in San Francisco.

But back to the conference. My favorite workshop was the one promoting peer technical advisors sponsored by the US Federation of Worker Co-ops. One co-worker of mine is actually going through the one-year training program right now, but I’ve informally (for Rainbow) been doing technical assistance for 15 years or so. The meat of the workshop involved small groups using the USFWC guidelines to decide how to proceed on requests for assistance sent to the Federation. These were real requests and – as they often come to me – were confused, hopeful, exciting, depressing, revealing, and baffling all at once. One envisions it being clear cut, “Hi, I represent 10 people trying to start a wood-working collective”, but oh, in real life it so isn’t.

I realized that my years of frustration with this was coming out during the workshop. I knew I needed to tone it down when I tried to get to the bottom of the role play by saying to our (role-playing too well a particularly confused) requestor, “What do you want from us?” The kinda-new-to-co-ops person next to me looked at me in horror and said the much nicer, “We really appreciate your enthusiasm but maybe you could narrow down your focus.” That really probably would be a better approach.

Still, I learned a lot and am going to consider applying to the program. If not this year, then maybe the next.

My favorite request for assistance I ever received at Rainbow, btw, was one that was basically, “Hi, we want to start a co-op and after it gets successful we want to hire a bunch of people at minimum wage to keep it going while our co-op shares the profit. Can you help?”

No. I couldn’t help.

I actually didn’t attend many workshops because most were on the same day as my keynote. I was so keyed up after that talk that I just couldn’t do it. I would have either been too dis-engaged or would have tried to dominate the discussion because once you get into entertaining-a-group-of-75-people-for-a-half-hour-by-yourself mode, it’s hard to turn it off. Other folks were there representing the store, after all. I went and sat by the river with my book.

Sorry Sarah Marcus I was in a van with co-workers trying to get back to SF as soon as possible (11.5 hours, not bad!) I really wanted to visit your farm that I basically passed on the road. Next time!

Hey, I’m an online “influencer”!

My name is xxxxxxxxxxxxxx and I work for Big Fuel Communications. We are General Motors’ social media agency of record, and we’re currently working on building our networking and relationships with online influencers like yourself. We love what you’ve been doing with your site and would love to discuss a potential partnership with you and also tell you about our latest culinary event taking place in San Jose, California! Please let me know if you’re available to discuss sometime this week.

Cheese and General Motors… a natural combination!

Co-op Conference Keynote (Yes, people were clothed)

When I started working on my book in earnest, I had to focus. I resigned my position on the BOD of NoBAWC, encouraged other folks to run for the planning board of the regional and national co-op conferences, and helped recruit other folks to travel for out of town co-op events. Basically, I stopped doing pretty much all outside-the-store work to help the worker co-op movement.

So, to reward me for this, after my book came out they asked me to do a keynote address at the Western Worker Co-op Conference this year.

Now, to be clear, this keynote address is unpaid and, as opposed to regular book events which usually cost me half a day’s pay minus royalties on any books sold, (to be paid approximately nine months later) this event is in rural Oregon and cost me three days pay minus books sold. Of course I said yes. Heck, I figured I owed everyone.

Because of scheduling issues, the conference had a keynote on Monday night and on Tuesday morning. Rosalinda Guillen of Community to Community Development started things off on Monday night with a powerful talk about the realities of the lives of farmworkers, their extremely early death rates, and the possibilities of making connections between urban co-ops and the people who do the hardest work in the process of creating food. She has been helping to organize farmworker co-ops in Washington State.

It was then that I realized what my role in the conference was. It was my job to lower the bar. I started my keynote with something like, “We heard a powerful talk by Rosalinda Guillen last night. She talked of a lifetime of organizing to keep farmers from dying early deaths and showed pictures of children working in the fields. But hey, I wrote a book about cheese. Look at me!” People could move on to their workshops a little less intimidated after I was done.

Because this wasn’t a cheese conference or a bookstore crowd, I realized a few days before the conference that I needed to write a whole new talk for this event. I focused on co-opy things: that in the editing process, the most red-lined thing in my original manuscript was changing all the “we”s to “I”s; the irony of being on the cover of my book after working for 15 years to collectively build our cheese department to be one of the best in the country; the way the my co-op help me build the knowledge that I needed to have to write this book as well as being encouraging to me fulfilling an outside-of-work goal. Indeed, I do think that co-ops, being democratic entities, are uniquely placed to support both people’s workplace development, and their goals outside of the workplace. It’s one of the reasons I’ve worked at one for 17 and a half years.

Hey, look. An artist and co-oper named Eris Weaver did this awesome graphic recording of my talk:

co-op keynote

I didn’t talk about cheese very much at all (though three other co-op cheese buyers and one ex-member of the Red Star Cheese Collective were in attendance) but people seemed happy. After my keynote I went down to the river and collapsed in exhaustion, only moving in the next couple of hours to turn pages in my book and swat away horseflies. That was pretty awesome.