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Finally, a moment to spare…

Hey there. Perhaps I should have mentioned that I wouldn’t be posting in the last couple of weeks of 2009. Cheese enthusiasts are forgiven for not assuming that, but cheese professionals should have expected it. After all, between the food holidays and New Year’s parties, no person who really works in cheese retail has any free time.

Year after year I am surprised by vendors, reps and cheesemakers who try to conduct business during the last two weeks of the year. The best thing I can say about them is that they are bored and trying to find something to do. But seriously, every year some people try to call me up/drop by to talk about non-timely matters. Do they not understand that I am trying to sell their cheese for them?

Even the best-laid holiday staffing plans fall apart. Every year there is illness, family emergencies, (drunken) accidents, vacations etc. If those things have no happened to me personally, be assured that they have felled other members of our department. We have to cut (roughly) $10,000 worth of cheese a day this time of year just to keep pace and that is while doing about 5 times as much hands-on customer service. I don’t wanna hear about anything not directly related to that until January 2.

Three weeks ago: The backstock is overflowing!
backstock cooler near x-mas 2009

The following is a list of acceptable reasons for cheese professionals further back in the distribution chain to contact a cheese retailer at the end of December:

1. Changes to delivery schedules
2. Bringing in emergency replenishment of stock
3. Amazing deals that need to be bought right away
4. Bringing in presents: chocolate, booze, cheese, or holiday cards
5. Personal shopping

Seriously. That’s it.

A few years ago a certain rep turned up at the store the day before Thanksgiving. That is traditionally the biggest day of the year for grocery retail. Our little prep area was jammed with workers. The customers were elbowing each other out of the way to get to the counter. At least 5 different cheese conversations were going on. This rep walked in – completely oblivious to the commotion — a started talking to me, actually interrupting someone who was asking me what kind of Gruyere she should buy. My co-workers had to push past her to get to the cheese case. She was all, “Hi there, I brought you a schedule of promotions for February. Can we discuss them?”

I looked at her. I took a deep breath and – despite the fact that she was the only rep I had who often came through with free Niners tickets for me and my co-workers – I said, “Get out of here! Don’t come back til January! Look around you. What are you thinking?”

She looked surprised but backed off, murmuring some kind of sales rep pseudo-apology as she left. I was immediately re-engulfed in customers.

I don’t actually know what happened to her. Either she lost her job or got transferred to a different region (not because of me! I never mentioned this to anyone until now) but I never saw her in the store again .I’ve never gotten any more free football tickets either. But it was worth it.

Timmy, the P’tit Basque shepherd, gets in the holiday spirit. See how he is at home, in his apartment, and not visiting retailers:
DSC00497

Annie’s closing saddens the chevre snowman

Well, I guess I’m a little hung over from last night’s worker party. Still, I come to the internet to bring you the most impressive creation in the history of cheese. Behold the snowman made of chevre:
Chevre snowman3

No, I didn’t create this, my co-worker Sarah (warning: music starts right away on link) did.

The snowman looks very sad because our party was at Annie’s Social Club which is closing down after New Year’s Eve. Goodbye Annie’s… we will miss you very much.
 Chevre snowman4

SF Weekly online

The SF Weekly had me write a little year-end, Best of Cheese, top 5 for the online food section. Probably not news if you’ve been reading here, but they used my “415 represent!” picture. Thanks John!

Here’s the linky-link.

Redwood Hill Cameo

Let me note first that Redwood Hill Farm is producing some of their best cheese ever. The last batch of Camellia we got was stunning, unlike any I had eaten previously. They were pungent, onion-y, and tasted French. I know this because for some reason we had a lot of French tourists in the store and most refused to believe it was made in California.

In addition, they are making a bigger version of Camellia called Cameo: about double the size and with decorative stuff on the outside. The Cameo we have gotten — while less strong than this last batch of Camellia — has been better than any Camellia of the last couple of years, texturally much oozier and with a tastier rind.

The Cameo has been in short supply, however. Because of this, yesterday our distributor made a point of telling me that they they had a couple of cases for our order today. She said, “We have Cameo.”

I said, of course “Word up!”

Silence made me realize that the person taking the order was much younger than me and I just sounded like an old guy trying to sound hip. I said, “Uh, you don’t know that song, do you? It’s probably a little before your time… Search for Cameo and “Word Up” on youtube… Let’s just move on”

I’ve been listening to it ever since. So here it is, the unofficial California goat brie anthem:

Sesame Street cheesemaking

This has been making the rounds, but it really is one of the best how-to-make-cheese videos I’ve seen. Simple and concise.

I was going to mock the ’70s cheesemaking hippies (with love) but turns out this is the Crowley Cheese, the second oldest continually operating cheese plant in the country (Marin French is the oldest).

(Thanks to Kelly The P!)

My Thanksgiving cheese plate

I know this is a little late. I had some technical problems with my camera but it’s all worked out now. And I know you all love pretty pictures. Besides this is a nice diversion from dealing with the non-writing parts of putting out a book.

I usually post the cheeses I bring to my family Thanksgiving every year but I don’t want people thinking this is somehow my endorsement for top five cheeses in the world or anything. This is the cheese my family would want to eat before a Thanksgiving meal. (Though every year the cheese plate gets bigger and the meal gets smaller)

Here we go in no particular order:

Di Stefano Burrata
A little heart attack in a cup. SoCal-made fresh mozzarella filled with cream (Panna) imported from Italy.

di stefano burrata

Tilset:
tilset
Another favorite for my Dad who loves the stinky German cheese. I often alternate family gatherings between bringing this and Schloss by Rouge et Noir.

Lambchopper:
dutch cheese
The Dutch cheese that thinks it’s Californian!* Awesome sheep-milk Gouda imported by Humboldt Fog-makers, Cypress Grove Chevre.

Robiola Nostrano
robiola nostrano
The first batch we got was mixed milk, this one was all cow, all the time. All good.

Dunbarton Blue:
Sorry, no picture. My family devoured this and we won’t have any in the store until tomorrow. Amazing Wisconsin cheddar with blue veining. This was my family’s favorite cheese this year.

Challerhocker:
challerhocker
I know this cheese is so last month at this point, but there’s not a better Alpine cheese around right now.

On a side note, I wanted to bring a Vacherin Mont D’or but my buying was too tight. We ran out the night before Thanksgiving at 5 PM and I had forgotten to tuck one aside for me. Oh well, there’s always the next holiday.

*That’s a little Parrano joke there.

It’s getting close

Ok, ok. It’s almost real. Look what came in the mail yesterday. I am holding it so you can see it’s really in book form even though these are only advance reading copies*:
it's real!

But it’s not yet a real book! Don’t quote from it! It’s not corrected! Not for resale! (Oh look, I left a little of the label on that Mimolette. Oops) Pre-orders should go out in the beginning of February.**
uncorrected

It’s pretty amazing to hold this in my hands. Whoo-hoo!

*(By the way, happy birthday Myleen! You take awesome photos!)

**As always you can order direct from Chelsea Green, from Amazon, or pre-order from the bookstore of your choice (like your neighborhood worker-cooperative perhaps)

The blur of Thanksgiving week

Oh Thanksgiving, the annual American food holiday… whatever one’s political take on it it’s the traditional biggest single-day food event of the year for your beloved grocery workers.

I worked 9 straight days before the holiday (partly because I had taken the weekend before that off to drive to SoCal) so if I owe you a phone call or email, feel free to remind me. It was kind of a daze. Here are some highlights:

1. The failure of the American educational system: I understand people being a little shaky when they are entertaining their pregnant friends for a food holiday. However the lack of basic science among these people is truly frightening. Witness this exchange:

Thanksgiving Host: “I need a Gruyere for a recipe but I need one that’s pasteurized. I have a pregnant friend coming over.”
Me: “All real Gruyere is made from raw milk.* What are you making?”
(TH describes a casserole that will cook in the oven for over 45 minutes)
Me: “Well, you don’t really need to worry about it then. First, the curds for Gruyere are cooked for a long time before the cheese is made, but even with a truly raw, aged cheese, if you bake it ‘til the cheese bubbles for awhile, there’s no worry about safety. Any potential food borne pathogens would be killed by that.
TH: Look, I don’t want to argue. Just show me a pasteurized Gruyere.

(For the tenth straight year I brought my camera to work to document the craziness and then was too busy to take any pictures. Still, I wanted something to break up the text. This is what we had on sale in November)
cheese sales november 2009

2. Reps who are bored because their work is done: I understand that the week before Thanksgiving is a down time for other people. But please don’t come in to the store without an appointment the week before a holiday and try to sell me new products. It’s annoying!

2a. Immediate demands for action on things that are someone else’s fault I have one small company that just refuses to act in smart, professional ways. Generally I find it endearing, but the fact that they refuse to send invoices with their orders is annoying. Luckily I’m honest, because they don’t seem to keep business records. Sending an email that basically says, “Here are all the invoices for the last 3 months, please see which ones you’ve paid, and pay the ones you haven’t” will not be well-received any week, but especially this week. The fact that your “neighbor” sometimes gets your mail and cashes your checks is not an excuse.**

3. Misleading media on cheese The fact that many people think Humboldt Fog is a blue cheese*** is a constant cheese worker correction. No big deal. But, somewhere this year, someone must have referred to it that way somewhere in the media. In the same way that all of a sudden 20 people ask for mascarpone in the same day because it was in a Food Section recipe, people came in asking for Humboldt Fog Blue. I thought it was just me, but Sweet Cheezus and Ilipodscrill confirmed that they had the same experience too. The best was the person who asked, ‘Humboldt Fog is the same thing as Pt. Reyes Blue, right?” If only they’d added “and it’s made by Cowgirl Creamery, right?” they would have hit the most common local cheese mistakes in just one sentence.

Because I was cranky and a Californian, I replied, “You know Humboldt County is about 200 miles from Pt. Reyes, right?” If you are reading this, Bay Area Transplant, sorry for my tone!

I’m sure there’s more, but that’s all I can remember right now. Who had time to write things down last week? Not cheese workers, that’s for sure.

*Honestly, this is why I like to carry the Rothkase “Gruyere”. First off, it’s a pretty awesome cheese. Secondly, even though I am not really down with it calling itself a Gruyere since it is not from the Alps, the fact that it is not made with raw milk makes it the default pregnancy and compromised immune system cheese for that type of cheese and keeps me out of arguments about basic science.
**as it turns out we had paid (and checks were cashed, possibly by the “neighbor”) every invoice more than 15 days out.
***That’s ash, not mold. Isn’t is pretty?

I’ve got an index!

Long before I ever thought about writing a book I was fascinated by indexes. I realize now that I have always wanted to read a history of indexes: how themes are chosen, the hidden politics of indexing, unsung heroic indexers etc. Is there one out there?

Of course this realization was spawned by the fact that I just found out that I’m getting an index. I know it makes sense, I just hadn’t thought about it! To me this is much more exciting that the cover finally being chosen.

I mean, check out this snippet:


Reagan, Ronald, 82–83, 96–98, 189–190, 195–196
Reblochon, 92
recombinant bovine growth hormone (rBGH), 26, 74, 84–87, 94
Red Hawk, 134, 180, 184
rednecks, 41–42
Redwood Hill Farm, 44, 55–56, 88, 141, 151
rennet, 5, 93–96

That is a better advertisement for the book than anything I can come up with. My only regret is that I didn’t somehow incorporate The Rezillos into the manuscript. That would have made this little index cross section even better.

My annual cheese nightmare

In an odd twist, my annual pre-holiday cheese nightmare wasn’t about cheese at all. No –for whatever reason — I feel confidant that I haven’t over-ordered this year. Maybe it’s because I don’t have to receive all the cheese myself anymore…

Still, while I take a perverse pride in having my sleep interrupted by cheese anxiety, last night I had a nightmare about fake cheese. That’s just downright undignified.

There’s this new vegan flavor of the month “best vegan cheese ever” that we have been going to great lengths to carry. It’s called Daiya. It’s from Canada. It’s made of cassava root (like tapioca) and it is really good for what it is. It tastes kinda like the butter flavoring you get on popcorn. It comes pre-shredded and I don’t think it’s a trade secret that the Amici’s chain is now using it on their vegan pizzas.

Unfortunately, while we are selling tons of it, the food service demand for it hasn’t been what the distributors expected and there’s a little Daiya drought. Obsessed vegans are feeling betrayed that we don’t have it on our shelves. I made the mistake of checking my work email upon returning home from a short trip last night and my co-workers were begging me to tell them when it would be in. Evidently it ran out even sooner than expected and the vegans were upset.

Last night I kept having dreams about my coworkers and I being trapped behind the cheese counter, frantically shredding Play Doh and cupping it as a substitute for the unavailable Daiya. There was a huge mob of them having their equivalent of a bread riot, trampling the weak to get their shredded Play Doh cups so they could make their vegan lasagnas for the holidays. They were gathering the remains of the strength in their little vegan bodies in order to elbow their way to the front of the lines. The sneakier ones were jumping the successful elbower-outers as they ran away from the cheese section and jacked their Play Doh that way. Vegan Melee! Very stressful!!

Please Mr. Sandman, if you give me back my dreams of rotting Swiss and maggoty Brie — I will never complain again!

(ETA: oh thank god. I just got word that we’ll get more on Wednesday)