Tag Archives: american cheese society favorites

Cheese-a-Topia favorites: Blues

How about some blues? I’ve written about a lot of the good ones in this category over the years so here are two that surprised me.

North Hendren Cooperative Dairy Black River Caraway Blue. All I can say is, I never thought of putting caraway in blue cheese but it was surprisingly good.
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This was the biggest surprise though. My cheese buddy and fellow cheese judge Emi was judging the blues as I walked by and he said you have to try this. I looked at it and thought to myself, “Wow, that looks like the Blue cheese that Bravo Farms used to make years ago.” When I tasted it, I thought, “It tastes a lot like that cheese, but much creamier and with a much bigger blue flavor. Oh, how we need a high fat/high moisture blue in California… I wonder who makes this.”

During the awards ceremony, I couldn’t wait for the winner of the “Blue-veined made from cow’s milk with a rind or external coating” category to be announced, because whatever it was already on my list of cheeses to seek out after the conference.

What a shock when I found out it was the Bravo Bl’u!* Evidently they started making it again, although in such small quantities that it is not in distribution. Pretty!
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If you’re in the Central Valley, stop by the farm store and pick some up. He’s the Bravo Owner Bill with some unidentified cheese person “borrowing” his blue ribbon for a picture.
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*no, I don’t understand the apostrophe either

Cheese-a-Topia favorites: soft-ripened

Ok, it’s been a couple of weeks and I’m still reviewing the ACS. It’s all good, right? I mean, what else do we have to write about in cheese land?

I’m going to first review a bunch of cheeses that I liked a lot but did not vote for in the Best of Show. Then I’ll discuss which ones I voted for and which ones won. You with me?

Ok, in the soft-ripened categories I had two favorites. I’m always so happy when I’m into a cheese that I’ve never tasted or seen before. It makes it so obvious that there are so many good cheeses in the country (and world) that I still have yet to try. It kinda gives you hope about everything, ya know? I had tasted neither of these before last month.

The first was in my judging category of “flavor-added, soft-ripened”.

Here’s the Appleton Creamery Camella from Maine:
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Isn’t it pretty? I wish I had known about them when I visited Maine a few years ago, I would have loved to visit.

The other soft-ripened cheese I’d like to mention was the Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser Soeur Angele which won for “sheep and mixed milk”:
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The Soeur Angele is a mix of goat and cow with added cream. Not a strong cheese, but a perfectly ripened and tasty wheel. Makes me hope I can go to Montreal for next year’s ACS and try all those Canadian cheeses we never get here.

American Cheese Society: Favorite Cheese (Part 6- last entry)

You have to love a cheese company that makes it almost impossible to find out they make one of Canada’s best cheeses from their website. Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar is a cheese I actually first tried at last year’s Fancy Food Show. That was an odd experience because they didn’t have a booth. No, the cheesemaker was lugging around a 30-or-so lb. wheel and commandeering empty tables to give out samples when he found a potential buyer.

I like when people who try to sell me cheese actually feel comfortable lifting one, know what I mean?

Looks heavy, doesn’t it? DSC00137

Avonlea is an awesome cheese in a segment of the cheese world that is rapidly glutting. It’s a clothbound cheddar, different than typical supermarket cheddar because it is wrapped with lard-lubed cheesecloth and aged with hands-on care. Most cheddars in the supermarket (and certainly most cheddars we sell) are made in 40-640 lb blocks and aged in plastic, sitting in cold storage until someone buys them.

The standard bearers for traditional cheddars are the phenomenal English ones like Montgomery’s Cheddar or Keen’s Cheddar, both cheeses made with generations of tradition. New, non-English, versions keep popping up that are also amazing like the Cabot Clothbound (aged by Jasper Hill), The Fiscalini bandage-wrapped, and, at times, the Beecher’s Flagship Reserve. The clothbound cheddars have different flavors than the block cheddars. They may never get that bitter-sharpness one associates with extra sharp Vermont cheddar, but they have a lot more complexity. I tend to use most of my cheese adjectives for these cheeses: the great ones are grassy, milky, sharp, sweet, and earthy. These are some of the best cheeses in the world and, from what I’ve tasted so far, Avonlea is a great addition to this list.

American Cheese Society Favorite Cheeses (Part 5)

This one is cheating a little – since I knew about this cheese for the last few months — but I was extremely happy to see the Labne from Karoun Dairies (beware cheesy flash website!) take first place in the cultured milk product category. I love this tart, creamy, kefir cheese. My pantry – I just counted – has ten empty Karoun Labne containers in it as I write this. I have been going through more than one a week for most of the last few months!

Here it is:
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I love it for breakfast with berries and our bulk, dark honey. For lack of a better description, it’s like a less rich and dense, more tart, cream cheese.

American Cheese Society Conference: Favorite cheeses (part 4)

Another great Pacific Northwest cheesemaker is Oregon’s River’s Edge Chevre. We’ve carried their Valsetz, Humbug Mountain, and Up in Smoke, but I’d never seen the Jupiter’s Moon until the Festival of Cheese

I mean, just look at this cheese!
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This batch was a little firmer than I would like, but the cheese is still good enough to get mentioned here. It’s like a firm, domestic Cabri Ariègeois! (basically a goat milk version of the heavily washed Vacherin Mont D’or/ Winnimere/Forsterkase style). Big, complex, earthy flavor: richness, tang, grassiness, and a little smokiness. I can’t wait to try this again under better conditions.

American Cheese Society Conference: Favorite cheeses (part 3)

Hidden Springs Feta I have raved about Brenda’s Ocooch Mountain previously, but I hadn’t actually tried her feta. I don’t know why. She was even making it when I visited her farm last year. Let that be a lesson, even if the fancy and unique catch the eye first, there is a reason some styles of cheese are so popular.

While walking around the judging room I saw the sheep feta winner and thought, “you know, I’ve never had a good American sheep feta.” Oh man, this cheese – which I later found out was the Hidden Springs Feta – was everything you want in a feta: creamy, rich, tangy, and salty. I wanted it with bread! I wanted it in salad! I wanted more!

Here are some of her sheep (because they are cuter than a picture of white cubes in a plastic tub):
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And here’s Brenda, the cheesemaker, last year at her farm:
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yeah, I never did get time to write about that visit.

American Cheese Society Conference: Favorite cheeses (continued)

I am proud to call the Pure Luck Dairy folks friends. (I guess I have a weakness for Texas hippies since I am dating one…) They make some of the best goat cheese in the country. I just wished I lived close enough to buy it! I would recommend all of it, but I was reminded at this conference that their Hopelessly Blue is a stunning cheese.

I took an awful picture of it:
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(I hope this is the worst cheese photo I ever post here. In my defense, I was only taking the photo so I could look up the cheese afterwards to see what it was. Next year I won’t slack so much on the photos.)

Hopelessly Blue is my favorite domestic goat blue. It’s got that goat tang, but a richness that other goat cheeses often don’t have. And they didn’t skimp on the Penicillium. Many blue cheeses seem to be ashamed of being blue, treating it like a flavoring or afterthought. In fact, I’d probably say this cheese is hopelessly devoted to blue* except that the way the cheese biz is going, someone has probably already copyrighted that phrase. If you are anywhere near Texas, find this cheese.

*badda-boom!

American Cheese Society Conference: my favorite new cheeses

Finally, finally finally, Dear Readers, I have gotten around to mentioning my favorite new (to me) cheeses from the ACS conference. Blame my bad teeth. After a couple of crowns and a root canal, all I want to do is watch crappy TV instead of write anything. When I finally did get around to this, it longer than I intended so I will dole them out one at a time this week. In no particular order, here we go:

1. Prairie Breeze The not-so-nice side of me was almost upset that Prairie Breeze won best in its category and much acclaim. I had already tasted it and ordered 800 lbs planning to be first on my block and all that… Seriously though, I am happy for the father and son cheesemakers who I got to meet briefly at the conference. Basically it’s a big, sweet, sharp cheddar – that new cheddar flavor profile that everyone seems to love. I love it too. Every piece comes with a sticker that reads, “Made with milk from small family farms” — local Amish farm milk that you know is rBGH-free.

Oh look, here it is:
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